Valley of Flowers had been eluding us for many years, owing primarily to the best time recommended for visit, which is July 15 to August 15 - just when school/college terms have begun.

Although there are several ways one can go, we finally undertook the trip by Qualis and ponies and it worked out to Rs.4200 per head, for the four of us, including food!

On the way
We left Delhi and took the road through Dabri, Hapur, Meerut, Bijnor, Najibabad, Rajaji National Park to Haridwar. At Rishikesh, we filled the diesel tank, purchased 3 raincoats at Rs.15 apiece and located the ISKON temple, all before 9 pm. Cocooned in warm clean rooms with a view of the Ganges, we sat and had puri aloo and achar for dinner. At 5.30 next morning, off we drove to Srinagar, via the diverted route past the Glass Cottage, Kaudiyala. A mesmerising view of the mist covered Alaknanda at 8.30 am at Srinagar made us halt for breakfast. We left for Joshimath hoping to reach there by lunch. Enroute, the sky was cloudy and we passed still ‘live’ landslides at Gauchar. After Karnaprayag, Rudraprayag and Ratura, where the Shankaracharya Health Center is located, we reached Pipalkoti by 2pm where we were stopped by a new landslide. Here we were informed that a bus had fallen over and the road had just been cleared. We rushed on, to Joshimath still hoping to reach Govindghat and start the trek on the same afternoon. The one way gate system opened for traffic at 4.30 pm by when it was raining heavily and despite being huddled together in the car we felt cold. The policeman at the gate advised us to stay at Joshimath for the night as the road was not safe in the rain and Govindghat did not have adequate staying arrangements. Tucked into comfortable and warm beds we were treated to the staccato noise on the tin roof the whole night.

By 9.30 next morning, we were ready to leave for Govindghat. We also booked rooms at Ghanghariya, at the helipad, which is 1 km before the village centre. The road was truly treacherous, slippery and stones were still rolling down the hillside. We reached the parking lot on the right bank of Alaknanda at 11 and paid Rs. 250 for the 3 day halt. We discovered that an NGO had organised the porters (pitthoos) and pony owners. So no haggling, one got a receipt for the Rs. 340 paid for the porter and retained the ID card until the journey got over. We discovered that the same NGO (ECO) was also involved in scavenging and eco friendly disposal of waste on the trek route. We started the climb and although the gradient was discouraging we carried on, undaunted.

Reaching the valley
Trudging, stopping, enquiring from others if the way ahead was any better, cool drinks, cups of tea, lunch and Bisleri for 8 hours reached us to Ghanghariya. Our raincoats stood us in good stead. Our unified cries of happiness rent through the rarified air. The scenery was gorgeous. Innumerable water falls, greenery covered hills, silver oak (bhoj patra), mulberry gave way to pines and deodars. Gushing waters of the Lakshman Ganga through the narrow gorges, hair pin bends and cascades added to the din of cicadas and the myriad bird calls. The first village enroute is Pulna, peopled by the Chauhans who migrated some 500 years ago. It is marked by the very steep waterfall with an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Lakshman. Legend says that when Lakshman returned after killing Meghnath in the battle of Ramayana, lamenting that he needed to meditate in penance for killing a Brahmin, the Heavenly Gods and Goddesses showered celestial flowers. Some of these flowers survived to grow each year, making the valley a sight to behold.

The Chauhans spend summers in Bhyunder, 5 km further up, which is the last village on this route. The trail is wilder above Pulna and more forested, with occasional glimpses of snow peaks. It is a steady ascent with a mercifully moderate altitude. Shortly after Bhyunder the trail crosses the Lakshman Ganga over a bridge elevated by giant boulders. The going becomes somewhat harder - but Ghangharia remains only 3 km away. Walking across pastures where some cows and horses were grazing, the sky had turned overcast with a steady drizzle and as we arrived, the night was already upon us. We were happy to spy beds with quilts and promptly made ourselves comfortable in our accommodation. The sevadar got us dinner from a hotel in the village, plied us with flasks of hot water and offered tea almost every half hour.
At 6 am the next day we were ready to attempt Valley of Flowers. The sun peeped out of the clouds and lit up ethereal scenes around us. High mountains with glaciers sliding down, sleepy horses grazing and early trekkers already on their way down, all under cloudy skies. Walking up the first kilometre was strenuous and we engaged a pithoo to carry the bags and the jackets. He would also carry any one of us if need arose. One more kilometre, passing the Gurudwara abuzz with Shabad kirtan and pilgrim chatter, we crossed the bridge over the Pushpa Ganga. At the fork on the trail, we turned left to pay the entrance fee (Rs 50 per head for 3 days and no payment for still cameras) at the check post for the Valley of Flowers. We could see scores of pilgrims proceeding along the right side of the fork to Hemkund Sahib chanting Vahe Guru, tier upon tier along the side of the mountain till they disappeared into the clouds.

I started clicking as soon as we started the ascent - such unbelievable colours and shapes. The first kilometre is a steady ascent until the temporary bridge over the glacier is reached. Half a kilometre of descent later we crossed the Pushpa Ganga and climbed along till the landslide area. The trail was densely forested and we had to skirt around thick bushes and walk under lantanas. Then we spied the glacier across the river and at the landslide we actually walked over hard glacial ice. The bank across the river was barren, yet the left bank was full of plants bearing a multitude of flowers. One kilometre of steady ascent and we crossed over the hanging bridge into the Valley.

A riot of pink wherever you saw, walking amongst shoulder high annuals and literally being kissed on your cheeks by flowers of all hues - pink (predominantly), blue, green, yellow, white, purple and red. We were informed that the dominant flower changes every 10 to 15 days. A unique experience well worth all the hardship. The Valley begins here and one can walk six to eight kilometres straight ahead plus climb the mountainside and walk on the paths alongside. As the weather played spoilsport we were advised not to stay longer as the landslide might get difficult to negotiate.

Hemkund sahib
We stole backward glances, not really wishing to leave this heavenly garden, yet intent to get home safely. By 2 pm we reached the Guest House. At 5 am next morning the sun was shining and the hills could be seen clearly. The sevadar got us the mules from the bazaar and we were on our way to Hemkund Sahib. The progress was swift, halting only for tea and paratha, having partially mastered the art of horse riding. It was beautiful all around. Three kilometres to Hemkund - lo and behold, we are surrounded by Brahmakamal in bloom. By 9 we reached the serene Lokpal Lake, and after washing our feet in the ice cold water we entered the Gurudwara. After circumambulating we took our seats on the carpet and were offered blankets to cover our feet. The kitchen offered hot khichdi as Prasad and a glass of piping ‘saunf ki cha’. The way we were welcomed to sit close to the hearth, and made comfortable, was unbelievable, fit to rekindle faith in the most difficult visitor! We then mounted our mules and began the descent at about 10 am. We arrived at Ghanghariya by noon by which time we had sore backsides. It was close to four when we reached Govindghat and loaded the Qualis.

Badrinath
As the road to Srinagar was not open yet, we drove up to Badrinath. One and a half hours and 25 km later, after driving through some wonderful ghat road and a couple of landslides we drove into a rest house at Badrinath just before sunset. After checking in we marched off to the temple. Unlike in Kedarnath, this colourful temple merges into the landscape, one among several buildings against the backdrop of the mountain. The railings to hold back thronging queues vying for darshan were redundant as the whole place was empty - a result of the landslides, perhaps. We settled ourselves in front of the inner sanctum, and were treated to rendering of Vishnu Sahasranamam and Namavali. Arti and bhog took place after the main deity was dressed up in regal splendour and the gold jewellery.

At 5 am we were woken by the sound of devotional songs emanating from the temple. As we stepped out on the porch we were treated to a brilliant darshan of Neelkanth peak which had been eluding commoners for almost 6 weeks. Soon we were also treated to a glimpse of Nar. Locals recounted the popular legend, that on the day the thinning hand of the idol in Joshimath would break, Nar and Narayan (another peak) would merge and Badrinath would turn into a lake.

Joshimath
Enroute to Joshimath we saw many apple trees laden with ripe fruit. Driving through slushy roads we realised that landslides had worsened conditions tremendously after we made the upward journey. We stopped by the Jogi Falls just beyond Joshimath, took pictures and resumed the downward drive. Before the turning to Helang there was a major breach where we found at least 25 vehicles stranded. The police patrol party informed us that the road may not be opened before nightfall. So we turned around and drove back to Joshimath main town.

At Joshimath we had lunch, went to the bazaar and visited the Food Preservation Unit run by the State Government. Located near the exit check post of Joshimath it has a commanding view of the valley with groves of walnut and apple trees. The workers were busy chopping the golden apples, boiling sugar syrup and preparing apple jam. The customers brought their own containers, so we picked up half a dozen plastic bottles from the bazaar to carry back the delicious spread. We then visited the Shankaracharya cave and the 100 year old mulberry tree called the Kalpavriksh. Despite the splendid locales, the downside to all this revelry was that, with no transportation for four days, diesel as well as food stocks were dwindling.

Back to base:
Next morning, the road opened thankfully and we piled into our vehicles and drove off. First stop was Pipalkoti where we had lunch and filled up diesel. The road from Helang to Srinagar was breached in fifty to sixty places. By 7 pm we were at Srinagar, from where we took to the road early next morning and were treated to glorious sights of early morning mist over the river. Progress was rapid and we reached back home, Delhi, safe and happy, drained yet rejuvenated, tired yet refreshed, raring to go once again.